Bouldering at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Bouldering
at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup
LocationJapan Hachioji, Japan
South Korea Seoul, South Korea

Salt Lake City, United States
Czech Republic Prague, Czech Republic
Brixen, Italy

Innsbruck, Austria
Dates21 April – 18 June 2023
Champions
MenJapan Sorato Anraku
WomenUnited States Natalia Grossman

The 2023 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 24th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 21 at the World Cup in Hachioji, and concluded on June 18 with the World Cup in Innsbruck. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event.

Natalia Grossman won the women's seasonal title. The men's seasonal title went to Sorato Anraku while Japan defended its title in the national teams competition.

Overview

Date Location Routesetters* Men Women
April, 21-23 Japan Hachioji, Japan
  • France Remi Samyn
  • Poland Olga Niemiec
  • Spain Sergio Verdasco
 France Mejdi Schalck United States Brooke Raboutou
April, 28-30 South Korea Seoul, South Korea
  • Switzerland Manuel Hassler
  • Japan Tsukasa Mizuguchi
  • Poland Marcin Wszolek
 France Mejdi Schalck Japan Miho Nonaka
May, 19-21 United States Salt Lake City, United States
  • United Kingdom Jamie Cassidy
  • Japan Tsukuru Hori
  • Japan Tsukasa Mizuguchi
 Japan Tomoa Narasaki United States Natalia Grossman
June, 2-4 Czech Republic Prague, Czech Republic
  • Japan Akito Matsushima
  • Poland Olga Niemiec
  • France Pierre Broyer
 South Korea Lee Dohyun France Oriane Bertone
June, 9-11 Italy Brixen, Italy
  • Austria Matthias Woitzuck
  • United Kingdom Jamie Cassidy
  • Japan Tsukuru Hori
  • Italy Anna Borella
 United Kingdom Toby Roberts United States Natalia Grossman
June, 14-18 Austria Innsbruck, Austria
  • Poland Tomasz Oleksy
  • Japan Gen Hirashima
  • Israel Stephanie Sexton
  • Spain Sergio Verdasco
 Japan Sorato Anraku Slovenia Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS Japan Sorato Anraku United States Natalia Grossman
NATIONAL TEAM Japan Japan

* Chief routesetters are in bold.

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[1]

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1 Japan Sorato Anraku 3350 5. 545 (29. 52*) 2. 805 7. 455 5. 545 1. 1000
2 South Korea Lee Dohyun 3130 7. 455 4. 610 (39. 15.3*) 1. 1000 2. 805 14. 260
3 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3000 10. 350 2. 805 1. 1000 10. 350 6. 495 (11. 325)
4 United Kingdom Toby Roberts 2710 (25. 89.5*) 8. 415 3. 690 15. 240 1. 1000 9. 365*
5 France Mejdi Schalck 2690 1. 1000 1. 1000 (-) 3. 690 - -
6 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2335 13. 280 12. 300 (16. 220) 4. 610 3. 690 7. 455
7 South Korea Chon Jong-won 2275 6. 495 3. 690 14. 260 (16. 220) 16. 220 4. 610
8 Belgium Hannes Van Duysen 2140 2. 805 13. 280 6. 495 13. 280 (-) 13. 280
9 Japan Meichi Narasaki 1945 8. 415 (85. 0) 25. 89.5* 35. 25.5* 4. 610 2. 805
10 Germany Yannick Flohé 1750.5 11. 325 7. 455 (-) 5. 545 8. 415 45. 10.5*

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[2]

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1 United States Natalia Grossman 3527.5 8. 397.5* 11. 325 1. 1000 (-) 1. 1000 2. 805
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 3005 11. 325 1. 1000 9. 380 4. 610 (-) 3. 690
3 United States Brooke Raboutou 2990 1. 1000 3. 690 3. 690 (-) - 4. 610
4 France Oriane Bertone 2649.5 31. 39.5* 2. 805 2. 805 1. 1000 (-) -
5 Israel Ayala Kerem 1995 4. 610 6. 495 (-) 13. 280 4. 610 -
6 Serbia Staša Gejo 1893 27. 68* 10. 350 (-) 5. 545 3. 690 15. 240
7 Australia Oceana Mackenzie 1880 (35. 25.5*) 13. 280 12. 300 7. 455 5. 545 12. 300
8 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 1805 (-) - - 2. 805 - 1. 1000
9 United States Anastasia Sanders 1765 37. 20* 5. 545 4. 610 (-) 15. 240 10. 350
10 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 1744.5 14. 250 (29. 52*) 25. 89.5* 8. 415 2. 805 18. 185

* = Joint place with another athlete

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[3]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1 Japan Japan 19130 3000 3395 3210 2740 2795 3990
2 France France 13908 2336 3535 2328 3042 847 1820
3 United States United States 12598.5 1575 1828 3650 848 2260 2437.5
4 South Korea Korea 8028 1295 1407 550 1681 1857 1238
5 Germany Germany 5895 1384 1252 443.5 874 1242 699.5
6 Slovenia Slovenia 5859 872 315 361 1831 857 1623
7 Austria Austria 5311 770 980 582 1354 980 645
8 United Kingdom United Kingdom 5236.5 370 995 1072 547 1725 527.5
9 Belgium Belgium 4323 921 772 658 610 27 1335
10 Israel Israel 4151.33 1151 717 805 483 932 63.33

Hachioji, Japan (21-23 April)

Women

74 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Brooke Raboutou won her first World Cup in front of Hannah Meul as the only athlete to get 3 tops and 1 zone. Brooke Raboutou was the only athlete to top boulders 3 and 4 in the final. Anon Matsufuji completed the podium, earning her first IFSC World Cup medal. [4][5][6]

Rank Name Score
1 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 6 6
2 Germany Hannah Meul 1T3z 1 8
3 Japan Anon Matsufuji 0T3z 0 7
4 Israel Ayala Kerem 0T3z 0 9
5 China Luo Zhilu 0T3z 0 11
6 Slovenia Mia Krampl 0T1z 0 9

Men

91 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Mejdi Schalck won the competition, being the only athlete to top more than one boulder. He was the only one to top boulder 1. Hannes Van Duysen placed 2nd, claiming his first IFSC World Cup medal. Paul Jenft rounded out the podium in third.[7][8]

Rank Name Score
1 France Mejdi Schalck 2T3z 7 7
2 Belgium Hannes Van Duysen 1T3z 2 11
3 France Paul Jenft 1T3z 3 3
4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 0T3z 0 9
5 Japan Sorato Anraku 0T3z 0 11
6 South Korea Chon Jong-won 0T3z 0 13

Seoul, South Korea (28-30 April)

Women

75 athletes attended the World Cup in Seoul. The results were based on semifinal standings after the finals were cancelled due to rain delay. [9] Miho Nonaka won the competition — her first win since Meiringen 2018. Oriane Bertone and Brooke Raboutou finished second and third respectively, separated only by attempts.[10][11]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Miho Nonaka 2T3z 20 22
2 France Oriane Bertone 2T2z 4 3
3 United States Brooke Raboutou 2T2z 10 7
4 Japan Anon Matsufuji 1T3z 4 15
5 United States Anastasia Sanders 1T3z 5 23
6 Israel Ayala Kerem 1T2z 6 9

Men

87 athletes attended the World Cup in Seoul. The results were based on semifinal standings after the finals were cancelled due to rain delay. Seoul winner Mejdi Schalck won back-to-back World Cups, finishing ahead of Tomoa Narasaki, with attempts separating the two. Chon Jong-won placed third, his first podium since Vail 2019. [12][13]

Rank Name Score
1 France Mejdi Schalck 2T3z 2 7
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 2T3z 6 10
3 South Korea Chon Jong-won 2T2z 2 2
4 South Korea Lee Dohyun 1T2z 1 9
5 France Manuel Cornu 1T2z 4 5
6 Austria Nicolai Uznik 1T1z 2 2

Salt Lake City, United States (19–21 May)

Women

61 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. Last year's winner Natalia Grossman was the only athlete to achieve 4 tops, winning a fifth-straight boulder gold in Salt Lake City. Oriane Bertone won silver over Brooke Raboutou. [14][15]

Rank Name Score
1 United States Natalia Grossman 4T4z 5 5
2 France Oriane Bertone 2T4z 3 6
3 United States Brooke Raboutou 2T3z 4 10
4 United States Anastasia Sanders 1T4z 6 16
5 China Luo Zhilu 1T3z 1 5
6 France Fanny Gibert 0T3z 0 7

Men

64 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. In the final, teammates Tomoa Narasaki and Sorato Anraku topped all the boulders in the finals, but Narasaki won the gold medal based on attempts. Anraku won silver and Toby Roberts bronze respectively — claiming their first IFSC World Cup medals. [16][17]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4T4z 6 5
2 Japan Sorato Anraku 4T4z 12 6
3 United Kingdom Toby Roberts 3T4z 8 10
4 United States Sean Bailey 3T3z 8 7
5 Japan Daiki Sano 2T4z 6 11
6 Belgium Hannes Van Duysen 2T3z 3 4

Prague, Czech Republic (2-4 June)

Women

73 athletes attended the World Cup in Prague. Oriane Bertone won her first World Cup ahead of Janja Garnbret. Bertone and Garnbret were the only athletes to get 3 tops and 4 zones in the final, separated only by 2 attempts to top. Flavy Cohaut completed the podium, earning her first IFSC World Cup medal in her first final. [18]

Rank Name Score
1 France Oriane Bertone 3T4z 4 5
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3T4z 6 7
3 France Flavy Cohaut 2T3z 6 12
4 Japan Miho Nonaka 1T3z 1 3
5 Serbia Stasa Gejo 0T2z 0 8
6 Japan Futaba Ito 0T2z 0 9

Men

94 athletes attended the World Cup in Prague. Prague 2023 marked Adam Ondra's return to boulder World Cups since 2021. Lee Dohyun won his first World Cup in front of Adam Ondra. Both Lee and Ondra completed all 4 problems in the final. But Lee claimed gold due to lower attempts to top. Mejdi Schalck placed third. [19][20]

Rank Name Score
1 South Korea Lee Dohyun 4T4z 5 5
2 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 4T4z 13 9
3 France Mejdi Schalck 3T4z 3 6
4 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 3T4z 5 5
5 Germany Yannick Flohé 3T3z 9 7
6 Austria Jan-Luca Posch 1T3z 1 7

Brixen, Italy (9-11 June)

Women

79 athletes attended the World Cup in Brixen. Natalia Grossman won the competition, repeating her win in Brixen last year. Seo Chae-hyun took the silver — her first boulder World Cup medal. Stasa Gejo won bronze, making her first podium since the World Championships in Moscow two years before. [21][22]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Natalia Grossman 4T4z 12 12
2 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 3T4z 3 9
3 Serbia Stasa Gejo 3T4z 5 6
4 Israel Ayala Kerem 3T4z 10 16
5 Australia Oceania Mackenzie 2T3z 5 6
6 Austria Johanna Färber 1T2z 4 14

Men

90 athletes attended the World Cup in Brixen. Toby Roberts was the only athlete to get 3 tops and 4 zones, winning his first World Cup. Few attempts to tops and zones proved important for the podium as the 2nd to 4th placements were separated by attempts. In the final, Sorato Anraku was the only one to top boulder 2. Lee Dohyun and Yoshiyuki Ogata claimed silver and bronze respectively. [23][24]

Rank Name Score
1 United Kingdom Toby Roberts 3T4z 10 7
2 South Korea Lee Dohyun 2T4z 3 4
3 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 5 6
4 Japan Meichi Narasaki 2T4z 5 11
5 Japan Sorato Anraku 2T2z 5 2
6 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 1T2z 1 2

Innsbruck, Austria (14-18 June)

Women

92 athletes attended the World Cup in Innsbruck. In the final, Janja Garnbret flashed all four boulders to take the win. Natalia Grossman and Miho Nonaka placed second and third respectively, separated by attempts.[25][26]

Rank Name Score
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 4 4
2 United States Natalia Grossman 2T4z 2 11
3 Japan Miho Nonaka 2T4z 2 13
4 United States Brooke Raboutou 2T3z 5 11
5 Japan Ai Mori 1T2z 1 3
6 Japan Futaba Ito 0T3z 0 12

Men

110 athletes attended the World Cup in Innsbruck. Last year's winner Colin Duffy failed to advance past the semi-final round. Sorato Anraku won his first World Cup ahead of compatriot Meichi Narasaki with attempts separating them. In the final, Anraku was the only athlete to get a zone and top on boulder 2. This also marked Narasaki's first World Cup podium since Vail 2017. Sam Avezou placed third, earning his first World Cup medal. [27][28]

Rank Name Score
1 Japan Sorato Anraku 3T3z 11 9
2 Japan Meichi Narasaki 3T3z 15 11
3 France Sam Avezou 2T2z 4 3
4 South Korea Chon Jong-won 2T2z 6 6
5 Belgium Nicolas Collin 2T2z 7 7
6 Belgium Simon Lorenzi 0T0z 0 0

References

  1. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2023 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  2. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2023 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  3. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2023 National Team Ranking".
  4. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hachioji (JPN) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering".
  5. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Hachioji: Brooke Raboutou claims maiden title". Olympics. 22 April 2023.
  6. ^ "Brooke Raboutou, Mejdi Schalck win Boulder World Cup 2023 debut in Hachioji". Planet Mountain. 24 April 2023.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hachioji (JPN) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering".
  8. ^ "Schalck and Raboutou earn victories at first IFSC World Cup of season in Hachioji". insidethegames.biz. 23 April 2023.
  9. ^ "IFSC Boulder World Cup Seoul 2023: Nonaka and Schalck win Gold". UKClimbing. 1 May 2023.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Seoul (KOR) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 30 April 2023.
  11. ^ "Mejdi Schalck, Nonaka Miho win boulder titles at rain-hit Seoul World Cup 2023". Olympics. 30 April 2023.
  12. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Seoul (KOR) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 30 April 2023.
  13. ^ "Mejdi Schalck and Miho Nonaka win the World Cup in Seoul". Lacrux. 1 May 2023.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City (USA) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 21 May 2023.
  15. ^ "Narasaki and Grossman win IFSC Boulder World Cup Salt Lake City". UKClimbing. 22 May 2023.
  16. ^ "Natalia Grossman Wins at Salt Lake City World Cup—Results and Recap". Climbing Magazine. 22 May 2023.
  17. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City (USA) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 22 May 2023.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Prague (CZE) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 June 2025.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Prague(CZE) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 4 June 2023.
  20. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Prague: Dohyun Lee takes boulder win as Adam Ondra returns with silver". Olympics. 4 June 2023.
  21. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Brixen (ITA) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 11 June 2023.
  22. ^ "Roberts and Grossman win IFSC Boulder World Cup Brixen 2023". UKClimbing. 12 June 2023.
  23. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Brixen (ITA) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 11 June 2023.
  24. ^ "Roberts and Grossman Take Gold in Brixen Heat". Inside Climbing. 13 June 2023.
  25. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2023 - General result W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 16 June 2023.
  26. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Innsbruck: Janja Garnbret wins double gold". Olympics. 19 June 2023.
  27. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2023 - General result M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 29 June 2023.
  28. ^ "Garnbret and Anraku win Boulder; Garnbret and Lehmann take Lead in Innsbruck World Cup 2023". UKClimbing. 19 June 2023.
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