Lead climbing at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Lead climbing
at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates14 June – 24 September 2023
Champions
MenJapan Sorato Anraku
WomenAustria Jessica Pilz

Competition lead climbing at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held over six stages at six different locations, from 14 June to 24 September 2023. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each event. Sorato Anraku won the men's season title, Jessica Pilz won the women's season title, and Japan won the national team title.[1]

Overview

Date Location Routesetters* Men Women
June, 14-18 Austria Innsbruck, Austria
  • France Yann Genoux
  • Austria Florian Murnig
  • Italy Alberto Gnerro
 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann Slovenia Janja Garnbret
June 30 - July 2 Switzerland Villars, Switzerland
  • France Romain Cabessut
  • France Yann Genoux
  • France Julien Gras
 Austria Jakob Schubert Slovenia Janja Garnbret
July, 7-9 France Chamonix, France
  • Japan Hiroshi Okano
  • United States Brad Weaver
  • Ecuador Pedro Coral
  • Poland Olga Niemiec
 United Kingdom Toby Roberts South Korea Jain Kim
July, 14-15 France Briançon, France
  • Germany Christian Bindhammer
  • Poland Marcin Wszolek
  • Italy Alberto Gnerro
 Japan Sorato Anraku Slovenia Vita Lukan
September, 8-9 Slovenia Koper, Slovenia
  • Poland Adam Pustelnik
  • Czech Republic Jan Zbranek
  • Austria Martin Hammerer
 Japan Sorato Anraku Slovenia Janja Garnbret
September, 22-24 Wujiang, China
  • Poland Adam Pustelnik
  • China Ma Zida
  • Japan Akito Matsushima
 Japan Sorato Anraku Japan Ai Mori
OVERALL WINNERS Japan Sorato Anraku Austria Jessica Pilz
NATIONAL TEAM Japan Japan

* Chief routesetters are in bold.

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[2]

Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang
1 Japan Sorato Anraku 4300 4. 610 (6. 495) 3. 690 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000
2 Germany Alexander Megos 2650 2. 805 3. 690 4. 610 - 5. 545 -
3 Japan Taisei Homma 2455 9. 380 13. 280 12. 300 2. 805 (13. 270*) 3. 690
4 Japan Shion Omata 2445 12. 300 8. 415 9. 380 5. 545 (15. 240) 2. 805
5 United Kingdom Toby Roberts 2440 16. 220 4. 610 1. 1000 - 4. 610 -
6 Japan Satone Yoshida 2080 6. 495 12. 300 11. 325 3. 690 13. 270* (14. 260)
7 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2065 (18. 185) 17. 205 14. 260 4. 610 9. 380 4. 610
8 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 1940 1. 1000 18. 185 - - 12. 300 7. 455
9 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 1720 7. 455 21. 145 (26. 84) 6. 495 11. 325 12. 300
10 Austria Jakob Schubert 1690 3. 690 1. 1000 - - - -

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[2]

Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang
1 Austria Jessica Pilz 3235 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 - 11. 325 2. 805
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3000 1. 1000 1. 1000 - - 1. 1000 -
3 Slovenia Vita Lukan 2725 (17. 205) 13. 280 7. 455 1. 1000 3. 690 12. 300
4 Japan Ai Mori 2610 2. 805 - - - 2. 805 1. 1000
5 Japan Natsuki Tanii 2525 (26. 84) 6. 495 9. 380 8. 415 5. 545 3. 690
6 South Korea Jain Kim 2485 11. 325 7. 455 1. 1000 14. 250 (20. 155) 7. 455
7 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 2430 5. 545 4. 610 8. 415 14. 250 4. 610 -
8 Slovenia Mia Krampl 2275 6. 495 5. 545 6. 495 - 8. 415 11. 325
9 Japan Nonoha Kume 2090 - 16. 220 2. 805 4. 610 7. 455 -
10 United Kingdom Molly Thompson-Smith 1885 9. 380 9. 380 12. 300 5. 545 13. 280 -

Innsbruck, Austria (June, 14-18)

110 men and 89 women attended the event.[3]

In the men's, Sascha Lehmann won the competition ahead of Alexander Megos. In the final, Lehmann and Megos received identical scores. Lehmann was awarded the gold by virtue of his better semi-final performance. Jakob Schubert won the bronze medal.[4]

In women's, Slovenian Janja Garnbret won the competition — marking her third Lead World Cup win in Innsbruck. Japan's Ai Mori finished second. Austria's Jessica Pilz placed third.[5]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 41 TOP 43+ 44+ 1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 47+ 46 39+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Germany Alexander Megos 41 TOP 39+ 44+ 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Japan Ai Mori 49+ 43+ 46+ 33+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Austria Jakob Schubert 39+ TOP 43 42+ 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Austria Jessica Pilz 49+ 40+ 40+ 25+
4 Japan Sorato Anraku 41+ TOP 40 42+ 4 United States Brooke Raboutou 43+ 43 34+ 25+
5 France Mejdi Schalck 39 39 40 42+ 5 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 49+ 45 46+ 25
6 Japan Satone Yoshida 41+ 41+ 39+ 42+ 6 Slovenia Mia Krampl 45+ 39+ 36+ 25
7 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 39+ 38+ 42+ 42 7 United States Natalia Grossman 46+ 43+ 34+ 24+
8 Spain Alberto Ginés López 21 40+ 40 42 8 France Hélène Janicot 37+ 43+ 32+ 7+
9 Japan Taisei Homma 41 40+ 42 40+

Villars, Switzerland (June 30 - July 2)

94 men and 83 women attended the event.[6]

In men's, Innsbruck winner Sascha Lehmann failed to advance past the semi-finals. Last year's winner Taisei Homma failed to advance past the semi-finals. Austrian Jakob Schubert won the competition — his first lead World Cup win since Innsbruck 2021. Czech Republic's Adam Ondra and Germany's Alexander Megos claimed silver and bronze respectively.[7]

In women's, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret took the win, topping all routes in the qualification, semi-final and final rounds. This marked Garnbret's seventh consecutive Villars Lead World Cup win. Austria's Jessica Pilz and USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second and third respectively.[8]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Austria Jakob Schubert 40+ TOP 36+ 42+ 1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP TOP TOP TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Czech Republic Adam Ondra 41 33 39+ 41+ 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Austria Jessica Pilz 41+ TOP 35+ 43+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Germany Alexander Megos 40+ 26+ 36+ 40 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) United States Brooke Raboutou TOP 37+ 45+ 43
4 United Kingdom Toby Roberts 40+ 35 36+ 39+ 4 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 39+ TOP 45+ 43
5 United States Colin Duffy 38 29+ TOP 37+ 5 Slovenia Mia Krampl 36+ 34+ 37 40+
6 Japan Sorato Anraku 37 34 TOP 36+ 6 Japan Natsuki Tanii 41+ 20+ 40+ 36
7 China Pan Yufei 38+ 30+ 32+ 34 7 South Korea Jain Kim 39+ 34+ 36 22+
8 Japan Shion Omata 37 34+ 33+ 24+ 8 Austria Mattea Pötzi 34+ 30+ 37+ 17+

Chamonix, France (July, 7-9)

92 men and 83 women attended the event.[9]

In men's, Great Britain's Toby Roberts secured the only top in the final climbed second in the final — claiming his first Lead World Cup win. France's Sam Avezou and Japan's Sorato Anraku won their first IFSC World Cup medals —silver and bronze respectively.[10][11]

In women's, South Korean veteran Jain Kim claimed gold. Japan's Nonoha Kume claimed her first World Cup silver medal at her second World Cup ahead of France's Hélène Janicot due to countback to semi-finals. [12]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) United Kingdom Toby Roberts TOP TOP 50+ TOP 1st place, gold medalist(s) South Korea Jain Kim TOP 35+ 39+ 43+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) France Sam Avezou 45+ TOP 39+ 50 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Japan Nonoha Kume TOP TOP 43+ 38+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Sorato Anraku TOP TOP 50+ 48 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) France Hélène Janicot 46+ 32+ 36 38+
4 GermanyAlexander Megos 44+ TOP 40+ 46+ 4 Austria Jessica Pilz TOP TOP 44+ 37+
5 Austria Stefan Scherz 37+ TOP 42 41 5 Japan Miho Nonaka 42+ TOP 36+ 37+
6 United States Colin Duffy 44 TOP 46+ 39+ 6 Slovenia Mia Krampl TOP 35+ 35 33
7 Slovenia Luka Potočar 44 TOP 39+ 39+ 7 Slovenia Vita Lukan 42+ 35+ 35 29+
8 South Korea Lee Do-hyun 44+ TOP 40+ 39 8 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun TOP TOP 46+ 22

Briançon, France (July, 14-15)

76 men and 67 women attended the event.[13]

In men's, the Japanese team swept the podium. Sorato Anraku clinched his first lead World Cup win. Taisei Homma placed second, and Satone Yoshida placed third. There were no fewer than seven Japanese climbers in the men's final - a World Cup record. Homma and Yoshida had identical final scores but Homma claimed silver by virtue of his better semi-final performance.[14]

In women's, Chamonix winner Jain Kim failed to advance past the semi-finals. In the final, Slovenia's Vita Lukan won her first lead World Cup ahead of Czechia's Eliska Adamovska and France's Manon Hily, who won her first World Cup bronze medal. [15]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Japan Sorato Anraku TOP TOP TOP TOP 1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Vita Lukan 41+ 41+ 44+ 46
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Japan Taisei Homma 45+ TOP 45+ 49+ 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Czech Republic Eliska Adamovska 42+ TOP 49+ 44+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Satone Yoshida TOP 40+ 43+ 49+ 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) France Manon Hily 44+ 41+ 44+ 44+
4 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 45+ 36 43 49 4 Japan Nonoha Kume 49+ 44+ 49 43+
5 Japan Shion Omata 45+ TOP 43 44+ 5 United Kingdom Molly Thompson-Smith 50+ 42+ 44+ 35
6 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 45+ 40 TOP 40+ 6 FranceCamille Pouget 42+ 38+ 44+ 34+
7 Sweden Hannes Puman 43+ 36+ 46 39 7 Germany Martina Demmel 40+ 40 43+ 34+
8 Japan Haruki Uemura 40+ 36+ 45+ 37+ 8 Japan Natsuki Tanii TOP 43+ 45+ 12+

Koper, Slovenia (September, 8-9)

59 men and 62 women attended the event.[16]

In men's, the final route saw many athletes struggling low down the route with friction on a sloper, resulting in similar scores for 5 of the 8 climbers. Japan's Sorato Anraku, having just won the Briançon lead World Cup, topped the final route, securing the win and the overall 2023 lead World Cup title. USA's Jesse Grupper took second place and Olympic champion Alberto Ginés López took third, his first World Cup medal since 2019. [17]

In women's, Olympic champion Janja Garnbret topped the final route to claim the win. Last year's Koper World Cup winner Ai Mori finished second and Slovenian Vita Lukan took third.[18]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Japan Sorato Anraku TOP 36+ 45 TOP 1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP TOP 35+ TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States Jesse Grupper TOP 36+ 32+ 42+ 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Japan Ai Mori 43+ TOP 35+ 44+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Spain Alberto Ginés López TOP TOP 25+ 23 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Slovenia Vita Lukan 37+ 33 33 40+
4 United Kingdom Toby Roberts TOP 14+ 37+ 21+ 4 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 42 42+ 34 38+
5 Germany Alexander Megos TOP 35+ 29+ 21+ 5 Japan Natsuki Tanii 43 34+ 34 33+
6 France Yannick Flohé TOP 35+ 31+ 21 6 Italy Laura Rogora 38 42+ 31+ 33+
7 France Sam Avezou TOP 33+ 29+ 20+ 7 Japan Nonoha Kume 33+ 41 31+ 31+
8 Slovenia Luka Potočar TOP 13+ 27 18+ 8 Slovenia Mia Krampl 41+ 42 31+ 11+

Wujiang, China (September, 22-24)

48 men and 45 women attended the event.[19]

In men's, Japan's Sorato Anraku won the final lead World Cup of the 2023 season over compatriots Shion Omata and Taisei Homma. [20]

In women's, Japan's Ai Mori won the gold. Austria's Jessica Pilz took silver, securing her win the 2023 lead World Cup series. Japan's Natsuki Tanii placed third, her first podium since 2019. [21]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Japan Sorato Anraku 35+ 40+ TOP 39+ 1st place, gold medalist(s) Japan Ai Mori TOP 39+ TOP 36+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Japan Shion Omata 33+ 36+ 34+ 30+ 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Austria Jessica Pilz 37+ 32 34 31+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Taisei Homma 34 TOP TOP 26+ 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Natsuki Tanii TOP 33+ TOP 26+
4 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 26+ 31+ 34+ 26+ 4 China Zhang Yuetong 33 26+ 28+ 22+
5 South Korea Song Yunchan 31 31 42+ 24+ 5 Japan Futaba Ito 33+ 32+ 28+ 22
6 Japan Ao Yurikusa 31+ 25+ 38+ 23+ 6 Japan Miho Nonaka 33 33+ 28+ 21+
7 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 29+ 38+ 38+ 23 7 South Korea Jain Kim 36+ 35+ 34 20+
8 Belgium Nicolas Collin 26+ 30+ 37+ 23 8 France Manon Hily 16+ 28+ 28+ 17+

References

  1. ^ "Results".
  2. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Lead". Retrieved 2023-06-24.
  3. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B, L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 18 June 2023.
  4. ^ "Sascha Lehmann wins gold at the Lead World Cup in Innsbruck". LaCrux. 19 June 2023.
  5. ^ "Garnbret and Anraku win Boulder; Garnbret and Lehmann take Lead in Innsbruck World Cup 2023". UKClimbing. 19 June 2023.
  6. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,L) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2024 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 30 June 2024. Retrieved 17 September 2025.
  7. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Villars: Olympic champ Janja Garnbret scores 40th World Cup win with lead triumph". Olympics. 2 July 2023.
  8. ^ "Garnbret and Schubert win Villars IFSC Lead World Cup 2023". UKClimbing. 2 July 2023.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Chamonix (FRA) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 9 July 2023.
  10. ^ "Roberts Wins First Lead Gold In Chamonix". Inside Climbing. 12 July 2023.
  11. ^ "Gold for Jain Kim and Toby Roberts at the Chamonix IFSC Lead World Cup 2023". UKClimbing. 10 July 2023.
  12. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Chamonix: Kim Jain and Toby Roberts win lead titles". Olympics. 10 July 2023.
  13. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Briançon (FRA) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 15 July 2023.
  14. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Briançon: Vita Lukan and Anraku Sorato clinch first lead World Cup wins". Olympics. 16 July 2023.
  15. ^ "Japan Sweeps Top Six Spots at Men's Briançon World Cup". Gripped Climbing Magazine. 16 July 2023.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Koper (SLO) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 9 September 2023.
  17. ^ "Garnbret and Anraku win IFSC Lead World Cup Koper 2023". UKClimbing. 12 September 2023.
  18. ^ "IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup Koper 2023: Janja Garnbret and Anraku Sorato wins lead titles". Olympics. 9 September 2023.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) - Wujiang (CHN) 2023 - General result LEAD". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 24 September 2023.
  20. ^ "Team Japan dominates in Wujiang, Pilz and Megos on the overall World Cup podium". LaCrux. 25 September 2023.
  21. ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Wujiang: Japan dominates final event, as Mori Ai and Anraku Sorato claim lead titles". Olympics. 24 September 2023.
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